In my mind I began organizing my tulip dissertation to this helpless horticultural pupil.
First would be my introductory comments, followed by specific cultural details, a few personal tips and tricks, and, if time permitted, I would finish with a brief question-and-answer period.
I was ready to give her a proper schooling on the details of tulip culture here in coastal Southern California. Where was her pencil and paper?
Perhaps an easel and pad would help me with my lesson. No time, the bell has rung; class is in session.
I took a deep breath, looked her straight in the eye and began.
First I detailed the chilling process for the tulip bulbs in her hands, with lots of precautions about too much time in the refrigerator, the ethylene gas problem, the paper vs. plastic bag debate, frostless vs. frosting refrigerators, 45 degrees Fahrenheit, etc., etc.
The instruction progressed as I moved to Lesson Two, the precise moment of planting; mid- to late November, no sooner, no later. And they must go directly from refrigerator to soil, with little delay, for their false-winter treatment to be effective.
Lesson Three was about the all important planting depth — up to 9 inches for most varieties in our climate, unless in clay soil, or with undersized bulbs, or multiflora varieties, etc. etc.
By now I was on a roll, my personal seminar well underway. I was quite impressed with myself and felt as if my tulip growing symphony, now well into its fourth movement, was perfectly orchestrated and moving toward a final crescendo. Perhaps an encore would be requested.
But not too quick! I had to tell her to take care of which tulip varieties to select. Not the Darwin tulips, Rembrandt tulips or Fosteriana tulips.
Stay away from the kaufmanniana, greigii and triumph tulips too.
