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Restaurant Review:

Tastes of home at Zov’s Café

June 11, 2009|By John Reger

What started almost as an accident has blossomed into one of the strongest restaurants in the area and a place treasured by residents.

It began in the kitchen of Zov Karamardian, who enjoyed cooking for friends and family and decided to start a catering business. That morphed into a restaurant in Tustin and that has evolved into locations in Irvine and Newport Coast.

Karamardian’s son, Armen, runs the Newport Coast location and had the privilege of growing up with his mom’s cooking. It gave him a perfect view into his mother’s philosophy of how she wants the restaurant run.

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Armen has added some touches, like the deliciously crisp pomegranate martini that was so smooth I didn’t even think there was alcohol in it.

Despite the beautifully but simply decorated dining room, the restaurant still has a nice homey feel to it. If the décor doesn’t remind you of dining at a family or friend’s house, the food certainly will. What I like is that with few exceptions, there is uniqueness in every menu item at Zov’s.

For example the crispy pita nachos take a couple of cultures and meld them together pretty effortlessly. The roasted chicken and pico de gallo with avocado and fontina cheese instead of the traditional cheddar was exceptionally good.

Karamardian can’t stray far from her Middle Eastern roots with the starters offering hummus, tabouleh and lahmejuhn for options to begin a meal.

The lahmejuhn is a spicy beef with diced tomatoes, and bits of feta and Parmesan cheese. The beef is tender and the cheeses counterbalance any spice from the meat.

We wanted hummus, but instead of ordering it alone, got the mezze platter, which comes with hummus, grape leaves, muhammara and pita bread.

The hummus has a nice smooth texture, with no signs of lumps. The muhammara is usually a spicy dip, but Karamardian has mellowed it out, giving it a sweet taste with a nutty texture.

The grape leaves were a pleasure to eat. They were soft, with no bitterness that can sometime occur.

My only complaint with the dish is that I wish the pita slices were warm. They came out cold and there is nothing better than hummus and warm pita.

One of Karamardian’s signature items is her golden lentil soup. It should not be missed because the tastes of the soup are so delicate and comforting.

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