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Restaurant Review:

Welcoming decor meets menu variety

December 10, 2008|By John Reger

When I walked into China Palace I wasn’t really expecting to be put in a holiday mood.

My shopping was almost done, I had braved the crowds at South Coast Plaza and Fashion Island, and was ready for a break. So it was a little alarming when I walked into China Palace and there was a 15-foot Christmas tree to greet my girlfriend and me as we approached the entrance to the dining room.

The restaurant, which will be open on Christmas, is usually beautifully decorated, but it really looked festive. In addition to the tree, there were poinsettias and white lights on the trees outside that are visible from the expansive dining room.

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The facility is large, taking up almost nearly a half a block of West Coast Highway and the large comfortable booths offer a great view of the outside. Behind the main row of booths are booths that offer a little more privacy and are perfect for couples.

The restaurant is a nice mixture of both formal and casual in both its décor and cuisine. The oval sushi bar is set far enough away from the dining room so that its revelry doesn’t intrude on diners wanting a little more subdued environment.

The graffiti wall is my favorite part of the restaurant. Customers write sayings or their names or whatever comes to mind on the wall that wraps around the sushi bar area. In the dining room, hanging plants dangle from the rafters and soft spot lights comfortably illuminate the room.

The food is a nice mix of both Chinese and Japanese influences. The Chinese part of the menu is filled with both traditional and unique dishes.

For instance, I haven’t seen too many Asian restaurants offering veal scaloppini, but there it was. The dish served with fresh basil and black pepper is one of the more popular entrees. So is the Chilean sea bass, which has a chef’s secret sauce and is very flaky and moist.

A more traditionalist approach would be to get the mu shu pork or chicken, or the Peking duck. The duck comes in both half and whole orders.

We settled for something in the middle. The chili Serrano chicken combined the uniqueness of the sautéed chicken and chilies with a brown sauce that contained garlic, ginger and white onion.

The chicken was incredibly tender, and I almost didn’t need to chew it. Added to the poultry was a generous amount of cilantro that really made for a fantastic dish.

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