Advertisement

Restaurant Review:

Elegant menu, but lax like London

January 03, 2008|By Elle Harrow and Terry Markowitz
(Page 3 of 3)

Then there are the quarter-pounders, all made with a mixture of natural Angus and prime beef: the classic with lettuce, tomato, onions, pickles and secret sauce; the Crow burger, featuring tallegio, gorgonzola, roasted tomato and rocket on a ciabatta roll; and, for about $20 more, a Japanese wagyu beef burger on a brioche bun with truffle aioli. Now, if you really want to impress your date, order the special — the burger of your choice and a bottle of Screaming Eagle wine for a mere $2,900 (no, that’s not a typo).

Normally, niçoise refers to a salad but here it is a clever take on a burger. It contains all the ingredients of a tuna niçoise salad: tuna, potatoes, tomatoes, eggs, onions, olives and green beans — deconstructed. A rare tuna filet rides on a potato roll saddled with tomatoes, sliced eggs and red onion, then slathered with olive tapenade aioli and partnered with green bean fries (sautéed green beans). The whole thing made a mighty tasty mouthful.

Advertisement

Desserts represent Chef Brandon’s playful side with such whimsical titles as “Not Just a Ding Dong,” “Sub-Pop Tart with Seasonal Fruit Filling,” and “Irish Car ‘Bombe’ with Jameson Whiskey Crème Anglaise.” The latter is vanilla gelato with a chocolate center encased in amaretto cookie crumbs and drizzled with a touch of whiskey-scented crème anglaise.

If you’re old enough to remember it, think of that Italian standby, bisque tortoni. The fresh, homemade gelato has a very creamy smooth texture and rich taste accented by the crunchy almond-flavored crumbs, in a word, yummy.

This is a bustling, noisy neighborhood spot for good food and good fun, plus they have one of the most impressive beer menus around.

IF YOU GO

WHAT: The Crow Bar and Kitchen (949) 675-0070

WHERE: 2325 E. Coast Hwy., Corona Del Mar

WHEN: Every day, 5 p.m. to midnight

Saturday and Sunday: brunch 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

PRICES:

Appetizers: $3 to $14

Entrées: $8 to $29

Desserts: $8

WINE:

Bottles: $26 to $230

By the glass: $6 to $17

Corkage Fee: $20

BEER:

Draft $7.50

Bottles $6 to $27


ELLE HARROW and TERRY MARKOWITZ owned a la Carte for 20 years and can be reached at themarkos755@yahoo.com.

Daily Pilot Articles
|
|
|