Greer Wylder
In 1987, Robert Mah, then a professor at UCLA, opened Ho Sum Bistro
in Newport Beach. A man who'd had a heart attack at a young age, he
desired a restaurant that took healthy eating and good taste
seriously.
The restaurant served Chinese foods limited in saturated and trans
fats, concentrating on lower fat proteins (no red meat), and fresh
vegetables. Portions focused on moderation and balance.
Ed O'Neill, 44, bought the restaurant from Mah in 1990 and has
maintained the heart-healthy concept for the last 15 years. Mah, now
retired, is a frequent customer and is in good health.
Ho Sum's cooking is Cantonese-derived, though it substitutes
Canola oil and low-sodium soy sauce for the usual heavy oils. It was
even featured in "Healthy Dining in Orange County," a guide that
details nutritional information of entrees served at popular
restaurants.
Six of Ho Sum Bistro's dishes were evaluated for the guide,
including the Ho Sum Chicken Salad, Ho Sum Dumplings, Sesame Steamed
Vegetables, Califoriental Rice, Chinese Pepper Chicken and Quenelles.
Each dish rates as an excellent health choice for intake of calories,
fats or cholesterol.
O'Neill attributed Ho Sum's success to chef Gregorio Garcia and
his dedicated waiting staff, most of whom have worked there for at
least eight years.
"Keeping good people is key. We've put a lot of people through
college, and they continue working here after graduation," O'Neill
said. "Garcia makes all of the sauces. Every time you come in, the
food is going to be consistent."
Ho Sum has earned a loyal following over the years. Many of the
regulars come in three to four times a week.
In many cases, those regulars want things done their way. Even the
most popular Ho Sum Chicken Salad ($5.25 to $7.95), a mix of roasted
and shredded chicken breast with lettuce, red ginger dressing and
wontons, can be custom-made.
"Everybody who comes here orders it a different way," O'Neill
said. "It gets a little tedious, but we have to do it."
Ho Sum's menu has changed over the years, but the prices have
remained low. Prices range from $3.25 for edamame, to $8.95 for a
large combination salad. The value restaurant also serves large
portions.
"We've replaced some of the original menu items. We spend a long
time developing new recipes, place them on the menu as specials, and
if they're ordered enough, they go on the regular menu." O'Neill
said.
Recent additions include the Oriental artichoke, a steamed and
halved artichoke sauteed in a sweet and spicy sauce ($4.95); steamed
