Greer Wylder
Ric Flanagan always experimented with ingredients and recipes. At his
first hot spot, the Blues Cafe in Long Beach, Flanagan set up a taco
stand out front, and people raved about the fresh tacos.
At Caliente Southwest Grille, Flanagan created his vision of a
restaurant he would like to eat at. The gourmet fast-food restaurant
on East 17th Street in Costa Mesa has a Southwest theme with a blend
of Spanish, Native American and Mexican cuisine.
"It's the kind of place you can easily get in and out of,"
Flanagan said. "And with no waitresses, I can sell food at about half
the price."
The tiny restaurant doesn't suit lingerers, with only six tables
and a counter space; it's mostly a take-out spot. Fresh and expensive
ingredients are his kitchen secrets.
"It's a small place for the volume we produce, so there's no room
for storage," Flanagan said. "We have to buy fresh ingredients every
day. And we use queso fresco that's three times as expensive as jack
cheese, but the taste makes a big difference."
Flanagan also attributes Caliente's success -- they do 300 lunches
and 250 dinners, of which 68% are take-out, on an average day -- to
the variety of sauces. Unlike most quick-serve restaurants, Caliente
has one chef, who makes all the sauces, including zesty chipotle
tartar, quemada cream, green tomatillo sauce, and apache sauce. Five
fresh salsas also are made daily.
Trial and error, cookbooks and a friend's input helped shape
Caliente's hit menu.
"My Blue Moon chicken salad put me on the map," Flanagan said.
He's referring to his own creation and one of Costa Mesa's best
salads. It's a combination of sliced grilled chicken, romaine,
crumbled blue cheese, sliced granny smith apples, pepitas, fresh
mango relish, queso fresco and creamy pepita citrus dressing ($6.45).
Flanagan said Caliente makes carnitas the old-fashion way, boiled
in oil, then quickly fried right before it goes out. That way,
carnitas won't retain grease. Caliente serves carnitas in tacos
($1.99) and in a burrito with pico de gallo and guacamole ($4.85).
Caliente also thrills diners with its best carnitas, in a platter
that's cooked in banana leaves, then topped with pico de gallo,
guacamole and cilantro. It's served with Tex-Mex black beans, rice
and either corn or flour tortillas ($6.50).
Other great dish choices includes flautas, either chicken or steak
versions, served with fire-roasted chipotle dipping sauce, sour
cream, guacamole, pico de gallo, lettuce and queso fresco ($5.15).
