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Building a culinary empire

February 06, 2004

Greer Wylder

Tim and Liza Goodell, both accomplished chefs, met while working for

star chef Gary Danko.

It was at the prestigious dining room at the Ritz-Carlton, San

Francisco -- the only North American hotel and restaurant to earn

Mobil's five-star rating and AAA's five-diamond rating.

What a great place to fall in love.

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They married and relocated to Newport Beach in 1991, where Tim

grew up. Here they enriched their cooking experience: Liza worked at

the Four Seasons Hotel in Newport Beach; Tim was a chef at the

Ritz-Carlton, Laguna Niguel. In 1994, they opened the

French-influenced Aubergine. It was in a tiny cottage once home to

Allen Beck Florist at Newport's quiet Cannery Village.

The past 10 years, the Goodells have built a local culinary

empire. Soon after Aubergine opened, it was rated as one of Southern

California's finest restaurants. They added Troquet in 1997, an

upscale French bistro at South Coast Plaza, and 2002 was their

craziest year, when they opened three restaurants and a wonderful

bakery.

The Red Pearl Kitchen debuted in Huntington Beach. It strayed off

the familiar French cuisine map as a hip and sexy Chinese restaurant.

The Lodge at the Camp in Costa Mesa serves American comfort food in a

retro-stylish setting. It's adjacent to the Village Bakery, where the

Goodells offer the same fine bakery items found at their restaurants.

At the contemporary chic Viceroy Hotel in Santa Monica, they oversee

the Whist. This is a fun and sophisticated California-French

restaurant furnished with vintage and modern designs.

Both Goodells share restaurant duties. Liza's in charge of what

matters outside the kitchen. She constantly seeks new ways to improve

the ambience, menus, service and concept of each location. She even

meticulously finds the latest and greatest serving dishes that

accentuate beautiful foods. Current serving ware favorites include

fine French Bernardaud porcelain; contemporary and avant-garde

designs from Rosenthal; and Annieglass, handcrafted dinnerware that's

evocatively asymmetrical and can be edged in 24-karat gold. Tim

rotates from restaurant to restaurant; his cooking schedule is never

planned. Food & Wine Magazine recently named him one of the "Best

Chefs in America." Bon Appetit Magazine says he's one "to watch"

among the next generation of superstar chefs.

When the gifted culinary couple dines out locally, they don't have

a favorite spot. Their choice depends on their mood. When they're

with their children, they frequent Ruby's Diner; they absolutely love

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