Stephen Santacroce
I am often disappointed when I hear friends or acquaintances
dismissing whole categories of ethnic cuisines based on broad
generalizations.
Phrases such as "I don't like French food -- too many cream
sauces" or "Mexican food is too fattening with all the rice and
beans" are used to characterize unfairly the offerings of entire
nations.
Unfortunately, generalizations such as these do as much of a
disservice to a country's cuisine as do other cultural stereotypes
that we strive so hard to avoid. Regional variations create a wide
diversity of cooking styles based on climate and availability of
ingredients. Our own country is a perfect example: think about the
great crab cakes we can get in Maryland, oysters from the Pacific
Northwest, or steaks from Chicago.
Thai food is an excellent example of the pitfalls of stereotypes,
as this cuisine is often written off as being "too spicy" or "nothing
but curries."
The cuisine from Thailand offers a wide variety of dishes to
satisfy many palates. In addition, as with most cultures, there is a
distinct difference between the Thai foods prepared for everyday
meals and the dishes that require more work or expensive ingredients
and are reserved for special occasions or higher-end restaurants.
Bangkok Four in South Coast Plaza is an excellent example of the
refined flavors found at an higher-end Thai restaurant. Despite its
relatively hidden location on the third floor of the Crystal Court
area, Bangkok Four has over the years developed a loyal following
that keeps the restaurant crowded with diners delighting in superb
Thai dishes.
The restaurant was one of the first tenants in the Crystal Court
when it opened in the late 1980s, and the restaurant's decor still
exhibits some of the design influences of the time, including pale
blue pastel walls, black lacquer chairs surrounding tables sporting
crisp white linens and a touch of neon here and there. Seating spills
out into the atrium lobby, where market umbrellas create the aura of
an elegant patio.
I first dined at Bangkok Four eight or nine years ago when there
were far fewer Thai restaurants in the area. Recently, I returned
with a group of friends to see if the food still held its own against
some of these newer offerings.
The first good sign was that the restaurant was crowded on a
Saturday evening. I was glad I had called ahead for reservations.
Despite the crowd, the hostess pleasantly held our table while we
rendezvoused at Nello's two floors down for a pre-dinner cocktail.
