Jennifer K Mahal
You can't miss the sign. The baby boy grinningly wearing a bowl of
spaghetti upside down on his head would make the hardest hearted
person smile while driving down Harbor Boulevard. But it's the low
prices and the yummy food, not the advertising, that will keep you
returning to Pasta Connection, on the corner of 19th Street in Costa
Mesa.
It took Luis Rodriguez eight years to start the restaurant, which
has been a Costa Mesa staple for the past 18 years. The photo for the
sign, which features son Louis at age 1 1/2 , was taken a year and a
half before the family eatery opened its doors.
"It was one of my dad's visions," daughter and manager Yadira
Hernandez said. "He asked my mom to prepare pasta and sauce and just
go at it."
Rodriguez's vision included owning a place where pasta would be
made daily with fresh ingredients from the recipes handed down from
his mother. The dishes are Italian with an Argentinian touch --
Rodriguez, who is from both cultures, said the two cuisines are
closely linked.
The menu at Pasta Connection reflects that connection, with
entrees like Pampas steak and sandwich de Matambre sharing the page
with chicken cacciatore. The range of items offered is staggering.
There are five choices of fettuccine, three of linguini, two types of
cannelloni, five types of ravioli and more. There's even a complete
breakfast menu with everything from pancakes (a short stack, $3.25)
to a mushroom cheese omelet ($5.75).
It is always annoying to order something only to have its
preparation exceed the amount of time you've allotted for lunch.
Pasta Connection circumvents this problem by stating up front how
long you will have to wait for some dishes. It is a courtesy much
appreciated.
On a recent visit, my friend and I started by sharing an order of
antipasto de la casa ($4.95). A bed of iceberg lettuce is covered
with rolled pieces of salami, mortadella and provolone. Butter beans,
tomato slices, garbanzos and green beans are tossed in with a
cream-based house dressing. Pepperoncini add a needed kick. There was
no skimping on the meats, cheeses or vegetables, but it would have
been nice if they had used less of the unremarkable dressing.
The bread served at the table is good, but ordinary. What is
extraordinary is the olive oil dipping sauce that accompanies it.
While most dipping oils have just a hint of flavor, this one has
flavors that burst on the tongue. Spicy and garlicky, I was really
tempted to find out how they make it. De-lish.
